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I'm a student pilot (PPL) and the C172 I fly has the following item in the emergency checklist for in-flight engine failures:

MAGNETOS...............TEST

My instructor has taught me the memory item verbatim as: "Fly on best magneto".

What does this mean exactly? Why fly on "best" magneto? In my mind, selecting BOTH is still using the "best" one, even if the other one failed.

In which situation would selecting magneto LEFT or RIGHT, rather than BOTH, be favorable during an engine malfunction or failure, mid-flight?

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2 Answers 2

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If you have a mag failure, it may just quit and act like it's not there, but it can also do things that will make the engine feel like it wants to leave the airplane and move to another city. That is, really rough running.

If a mag just quits working completely while in cruise, chances are, unless you are paying really careful attention at the time, you won't even notice it, and the surprise will come at the next runup.

The typical in-flight failure you WILL notice is sudden banging and vibration that makes you jump out of your skin. As one example, a traditional mag has an internal plastic timing gear driving the distributor. If the teeth are worn down, the gear might skip a bunch of teeth, advancing the timing way out of specification although it still may still fire the plugs, and you'll feel it in the cockpit.

Severely advanced timing will likely be damaging cylinders, so you want that magneto off now.

You aren't going to have a simultaneous double magnetor failure, where everything goes quiet due to lack of ignition, in any normal universe; the statistical probability is too close to zero (unless the plane has one of those single-drive dual bendix mags and the drive fails).

What's going to happen is one will quietly stop working (like a coil failure), which likely result in you carrying on unawares, or you might start to notice a subtle skipping as one mag misfires randomly (internal capacitor failures can do that), or, it will fail in an active manner that results in crazy roughness, like a major timing shift as I described.

You want to disable the bad mag ASAP, so you immediately select the individual mags to identify the bad one, and carry on with the ignition switch selected to the good one.

And if the roughness was actually caused by something else, you've confirmed the mags are not the problem, and carry on with them at BOTH.

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    $\begingroup$ A tip I've been using lately. As part of shutting down, I now always do a P-wire check, and thus I'll discover if I had been flying on a failed mag prior to my next runup. When I switched from renter to owner, it became MY head/body being in the propellor path to get the tug/towbar onto the lugs, and not the line crew's. It makes one go "gee, I think I better learn about magneto grounding!" $\endgroup$
    – Max R
    Commented Sep 1, 2022 at 15:02
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    $\begingroup$ The live mag check is a basic part of flight training really. I also do a mag check during the climb at altitude, especially if departing on a long trip, because the stress level is higher and a problem will show up, that won't on a run-up, that could catch you while you're away. Just a quick flip L, R, listening to the engine, back to both. $\endgroup$
    – John K
    Commented Sep 1, 2022 at 17:14
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    $\begingroup$ I am almost annually disappointed by something I learn that I should have been taught 30+ years ago! I flew for decades before I found out that the screwdriver bit at the end of the usual fuel drain tool was reversible between slot and philips!!! The P-Wire test was probably one of those things. My other mag question is, why are Cessna Mags Both-R-L on the keyhole, and not Both-L-R? $\endgroup$
    – Max R
    Commented Sep 1, 2022 at 18:20
  • $\begingroup$ No idea why they do it that way. Shouldn't really make any difference. When you are at START, only one mag is energized, normally the left one, which has the impulse coupling. But I don't see how that could affect the LR pairing. $\endgroup$
    – John K
    Commented Sep 2, 2022 at 3:06
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Each of the cylinders in the engine has two spark plugs, one connected to each magneto.

If one spark plug is fouled or fails, the combustion in that cylinder will not be as complete as it is in the other cylinders that have two working spark plugs. This imbalance of power produced means the engine will run roughly, or potentially even not run at all.

So, you’re not running on the best magneto per se, but on the magneto that is connected to the best spark plugs. That means the engine will run more smoothly because all cylinders are producing the same (albeit slightly reduced) power.

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    $\begingroup$ This explains how and why to get a rough engine to run more smoothly, but the question was about engine failure. @Chris, how does this answer your question? $\endgroup$ Commented Sep 1, 2022 at 2:08
  • $\begingroup$ @MichaelHall well it answers my question partly because engine malfunction is part of it I guess, but you are right. $\endgroup$
    – Chris
    Commented Sep 1, 2022 at 6:49
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    $\begingroup$ I suggest you clarify this with your instructor. If your engine fully quits then simply switching mags won’t help. $\endgroup$ Commented Sep 1, 2022 at 14:45
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    $\begingroup$ @MichaelHall my guess is that the "engine failure" checklist serves as a catch-all "engine issues" checklist. $\endgroup$
    – Chris
    Commented Sep 1, 2022 at 21:29

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