2
$\begingroup$

Aircraft had sat for 3 months, and on startup the right engine CHT (Cylinder Head Temperature) was climbing noticeably higher than the left. After taxiing and run up CHT was near top of green. Redline is 460. Other engine readings are normal. Annual inspection completed, mechanic said compression is ok and CHT still in green. I had the probe changed, but the problem persists. During flight, the reading was quite high compared to left engine and compared to what it used to be. What could be the reason for this?

$\endgroup$
1
  • $\begingroup$ Does fuel flow match between them? How do the engines compare when you go to lean them out? The problem here is that, never having seen your airplane, folks in internet land can spitball possible causes, solutions, and troubleshooting all day long, but none of it is worth much since we can't see what you're seeing. This sort of question doesn't tend to be a great fit for the Stack Exchange format, and may well end up being closed. Your (or another) A&P is probably your best resource. $\endgroup$
    – Ralph J
    Aug 15 '20 at 0:30
5
$\begingroup$

If the gauges are good (swap them to see if the problem moves to the other engine), the baffling is good (baffles must be tight to the fins to force air between them with no leaks around the plenum), the cowl flap works normally (not being unknowingly blown partly closed by loose linkage), the most likely cause is an intake leak that's causing the cyl with the probe to run lean.

Either the rubber intake hose is bad, the gasket at the cylinder is leaking, or the sheet metal intake tube to which the hose connects, that is swaged into the intake spider tubes at the oil sump, is leaking.

This is an old problem on Lycomings. The little sheet metal pipe stub is installed with a rolled bead that engages with a female groove in the hole in the sump, and depends on interference for a seal. They can lose the interference and start to leak (you will be able to move it if you loosen the rubber hose). There is a (very expensive) swaging tool (I believe you can rent from Lycoming) that re-rolls the bead from the inside. Some people prefer to just remove the sump and send it somewhere to be done.

Although the redline is there, you really want to keep CHTs below 400F if at all possible.

$\endgroup$

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.