I don't agree with the poling forward recommended by John K above "...PUSH when the main wheels are a foot or two in the air."
One day when the lighting conditions are different or you just misjudge the height (and who has not done that) you will come a cropper. Maybe a few inches if you are a good stick and current with your 'eye in'.
As for wheel landings vs three pointers in strong crosswinds, I would go with wheelers every time unless precluded for some type specific reason. My father told me you did not wheel the Auster but he did not elaborate as to why.
Having said that, I have 100 hours or so in the Pitts S1 and have never wheeled it. My S2 instructor (the S1 is single seat) advised me that "until you have 300 hours in it, if it looks windy enough that you might have to wheel it on, just don't fly it".
He did demo one in the S2. We were going awfully fast.
This is what I recommend for the C185 which is the tailwheel type that I have the most time on.
The secrets are - Weight on both main wheels, ailerons into the wind and keeping it dead straight! The last two apply to takeoff as much as landing.
In a fully loaded C185 you need 75 kts for a good wheeler. You want to touch down tail high.
Fly it in with confidence, wings level and crabbing down the extended centreline. I forget if I used full flaps or 3/4. It was a long time ago.
With only just enough flare to avoid hitting hard, close the throttle, de-crab and lower the upwind wing enough to stop any drift all in one motion. Do not 'hold-off" - avoid any float.
The aircraft will touch down on the upwind wheel. Immediately 'press' the aeroplane firmly onto the ground, BOTH wheels. You cannot do this too quickly.
AFTER both wheels are firmly on the ground apply aileron into the wind, all of it in a 15-20 kt crosswind and keep it there.
Apply rudder and if necessary differential braking to keep dead straight. This is done by 'eye-foot' coordination as required but will usually be anti-weathercocking rudder and brake. eg With a left crosswind the aeroplane will want to turn (yaw) left into the wind. You may need all the right rudder and then some right brake as well to stop it. Show the aeroplane that YOU are the boss. Leave the into wind aileron in place.
At all costs avoid rolling along on one main wheel because the 185 will often run out of rudder and the brake you will then urgently need will not work because the wheel will be off the ground!
Let the tail come down with about neutral elevator. Certainly don’t push down elevator to delay this - forward stick will unlock the tailwheel in some types eg T6, Mustang and Winjeel.
After the tailwheel is on the ground apply back stick and continue to keep it dead straight. If the brakes are weak or nonexistent (like a stock Tiger Moth) you may need full rudder and blasts of power to prevent weathercocking.
The above technique, with variation will work for most tailwheel types. However none of the other types I have flown need as firm a 'press' onto the ground as a heavy C185; eg the T6, the Chipmunk, the Winjeel (look it up), the Tiger Moth and the C188 only need a 'check' forward after touchdown. Also some have more powerful ailerons than the 185 and you do not want to lift the downwind wheel off the ground. (or roll a Pitts into a ball!)
However it is vital that you use enough into wind aileron so that you never, ever, ever let the into wind wing lift.
In an aeroplane with powerful ailerons, be careful not to use too much if you use any on the takeoff roll and be ready to centralise instantly as you get airborne.