How many hours should it take a shop to remove, install, and adjust the engine in a Cherokee 180 with a fixed pitch prop?

This would include the baffles and any hardware needed to be removed and installed for an engine swap.


I once changed an engine in the bush when I was bush flying, helping the air service's mechanic. It was a C-180 on floats (I had been forced down in it after the engine developed a loose cylinder from failed hold-down studs).

There was a rigid dock for us to work with at the remote lake we were at, and we used a bipod made of pine poles with a come-along to lift the engine and set it down on the dock (with the noses of the floats against the dock).

It took about 6-7 hours to have the engine and prop removed and ready to be loaded on the company Beaver when it showed up around 5 pm (loading it was the really entertaining part).

We went back in two weeks later with an overhauled engine and installed it, 2 mechanics and myself, and I flew it out that late afternoon around dinnertime.

So for a Cherokee sitting in a hangar with a lift handy, one mechanic with an assistant, about 4-6 hours to remove the engine, and about 6-8 hours to install it. Certainly no more than two days at most.

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That's like a 2-4 day effort or more, depending on how many hands are helping, and what the condition of the removed items are. I saw a Cessna 172 get its engine replaced after an overhaul, these are all the things I remember being touched, and it was more than 4 days due to waiting for some parts to come in.

  • cowling
  • cowling mounts at front of engine
  • spinner, prop
  • baffles & springs, as you mentioned
  • attachments & accessories, including:
  • muffler & heat shroud
  • starter & wiring
  • magnetos (dual unit or 2 single units). Does it/they need 500 hour IRAN?
  • alternator, belt, wiring
  • air hoses, maybe replace with orange SCAT hoses
  • carburator
  • throttle control
  • mixture control
  • carb heat control
  • all the engine probes, incluuding:
  • oil temperature
  • oil pressure
  • cylinder head temperature (may be 4)
  • exhaust gas temperature (may be 4)
  • fuel pressure
  • maybe fuel flow
  • maybe carb throat temperature
  • replace the engine mounts if they are old/stiff
  • fuel connection
  • oil filler/dipstick tube
  • oil filter (any adapters for spin-on filters)
  • oil filter screen
  • crankcase breather tube
  • vacuum pump
  • connections to oil cooler (and flush it out)

A lot of things are safetywired too, so that has to be all addressed as they go back on. Then securing all the wiring & hoses & tubing. My AP/IA won't let things be tiewrapped to the engine mount, ADEL clamps protect the engine mount and provide attachment points.

And I'm probably missing some things too. Then there's documenting it all.

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  • $\begingroup$ Thanks so much for your details-Al $\endgroup$ – user35743 Nov 28 '18 at 17:28

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